Day 854 Day 3 in Guilin. Please God, just one more.

I spent a leisurely morning at the hotel since there was a 100%
chance of rain in the forecast. I had my laptop with me and actually
got some school work done. I looked out my window from time to
time, and in spite of the weather, this elderly woman worked
continuously on her rooftop garden. It was beautiful.

Between rain showers, I decided to venture out
to see what there was to see.  I didn't have
a traditional South China woven hat like this
one to keep the rain off me...

Nor did I have an extended umbrella (made to
keep scooter passengers dry), though I could surely
use one like this to keep my backpack dry!

I could be like the locals and have a full
scooter rain poncho!

Complete with clear vinyl to see my rear view mirrors!

While doing a little window shopping, I happened
upon undergarments which are crotchless.  Before
moving to China, I would have been having
sexual thoughts at such a sight, however, now
I realize it's just for ease in the squatty potties, lol.

Then again, maybe not!  I opened the night stand
drawer in my hotel room to discover a four pack
box of condoms. Not that I will be needing any,
but props to the Chinese for thinking of everything!

Now THIS garment is a fabulous idea, fur-lined leggings
for winter in the 'jing!  Way to go, China :)

I stopped along the way for a little zongzi snack-
glutinous rice with a pork and leek filling.

Since it looked like the weather may break, I headed to
Elephant Trunk Hill, also known as the Two Rivers and
Four Lakes Scenic Area.

So there you have it, Elephant Trunk Hill :)

With nothing but time on my hands, I decided
to hike up to the top of the hill for a better view.

"Be Careful of Slippery"- you ain't a kiddin'!!!

At the top of the hill was Samantabhadra Tower,
a lamaist brick tower from the Ming Dynasty.
Because it looks as if the "vase" is placed on the
elephant's back (I am atop Elephant Trunk Hill,
you know), it implies happiness, peace and well being.
I could use a little more of all of those things in my
life, so I was glad I made it all the way to the top :)
In spite of the chilly, damp weather, I broke out into
a smile and had a much needed little burst of happiness.

My view of the river...that is not pollution, it
truly was fog/low lying clouds.  Down below I
could see some boats docked down on the right-
the same boats I took down the Li River yesterday.

I took another path around the front side of the hill, trying to
get a better view of the elephant's trunk.  I stumbled upon this
tunnel about 50 meters long, and 2 meters tall. It is believed
to originally have been a river way, hundreds of years ago.
From a distance, the two holes at the entrance and exit of
the tunnel look like the eyes of the elephant, hence it's name,
"Elephant Eye Rock".  

My view from the elephant's eye.

Down another path I discovered the Water Moon
Cave, which is actually the opening between the
elephant's trunk and his body (the hill).  I was
admiring the inscriptions on the cave wall,
written by some master of the Tang Dynasty,
when this Chinese lad asked if he could have
a selfie with me.  Getting your photo taken 
with a laowai is such a China thing, lol.

As I hiked down the back side of the hill...

...I stumbled upon a temple carved into the hill.

As I exited Elephant Trunk Hill scenic area in the early
afternoon, I realized my breakfast had long since worn off!

I was tempted to get a yam or taro root off the street...

...but I opted for stir fried noodles and vegetables instead.

This HUGE plate of noodles (I could only eat
half of them) was only 8rmb- that's $1.15 :)))

Momma K was so full of noodles, I had no
room for a moma cake ;)

I discovered a movie theater not 100 meters from
my hotel, and it had two movies playing in English. I
so rarely see a movie any more, I decided to treat
myself to both of them!  First up was The Great
Wall starring Matt Damon.  How 'a pro po' to be
watching this film in China!  It was just a'ight. 
I loved the scenery, having hiked the Wall many times,
but fantasy movies typically are not my cup of tea.
Popcorn for dinner was delicious, however!

Between films I had an hour to kill, so I took a walk around
the lakes area....

...the lights were beautiful and I happened upon a Christmas
gift for a good friend.  It was a beautiful evening :)

The late film I saw was Hacksaw Ridge.  I love military films, but had no idea what the story line was about.  First, I must share that China only allows 41 foreign films (not just American films) into it's country each year.  They are heavily screened, as you can well imagine.  Typically Disney or Pixar films make their way in- I've seen Zooptopia, and more recently Moana. The latest Star Wars played here, though I didn't imbibe- never watched a Star Wars film.  Not even when I crushed on Harrison Ford, back in the day. Go ahead, judge.  Anyhow, I understand why The Great Wall made it through, that much is obvious. In fact it was released here on 12/16/16, a full two months before its release in the United States- so that was cool.

However, I have to say, I sat dumbfounded during the first 45 minutes of Hacksaw Ridge.  The film is the true story of Desmond Doss, a Seventh Day Adventist, and a conscientious objector from WWII. The first half of the film has heavily religious overtones- no, blatant reference in fact- to referencing the 10 Commandments, viewing church services, quoting scripture, and the main character carrying his Bible with him everywhere.  I couldn't believe this film was one of the few chosen to play in theaters here.  Religion is not up for discussion in this country, yet the setting of the story to the film was ALL about religion.  While I attend an 'open' Christian church, I am dissuaded from ever discussing my religious beliefs openly with the Chinese, or in my classroom with students.  (Being the rebel that I am, you know I haven't exactly followed that 'unwritten rule' ;)

Anyhow, the story goes that Desmond joins the Army, in the wake of the Pearl Harbor attack.  In so doing, though, he refuses to carry a weapon.  He doesn't "want to be a part of the killin', but a part of the savin'."  Despite the Army's best efforts to get him to quit, he stays true to his convictions and convinces them he should be trained as a medic.  While he will be on the front lines, he still refuses to be armed.  The long and the short of it, Hacksaw Ridge is the bloodiest battle of the US forces against the Japanese at Okinawa. (Ok, NOW I get why this movie was allowed in....any time the Chinese get to see their Japanese neighbors getting slaughtered and having to surrender, they are ALL IN.)

During the siege, the Americans were getting decimated.  We were outnumbered and ill equipped. When it became apparent that we were not gaining any ground, the Sergeant, played by Vince Vaughn (that was an interesting departure from his rom-com characters) called for his troops to fall back and return to the base until reinforcements could be rallied.  Doss didn't get the memo, and he single handedly worked tirelessly all night long scampering over the battlefield, looking for survivors, dodging the enemy, and dragging the wounded to the ridge where he lowered them down to safety. This is the last half of the movie: repeated scenes of him finding another survivor, administering first aid, dragging him to the ridge, and lowering him down by himself.  After each person he saves, in his exhaustion, he says repeatedly, "Please God, let me get just one more."  It isn't until daybreak, as survivors are being transported to the base, that the commanding officer becomes aware that somebody is alive and on the ridge, working to save others.  Armed, locked and loaded, the troops are rallied to bring down the last of the survivors and to take the ridge from the Japanese for good.  

What I did not know going in to the film is that this is indeed a true story.  As the credits were rolling, interviews played of some of the soldiers from that platoon, including the real Desmond Doss. He was the first conscientious objector ever to receive the Congressional Medal of Honor.  He saved 75 men that night by himself.  As I saw the vintage photos of these men, and listened to their stories (as most were in their 90's by now), I couldn't help but start to sniffle.  I'm a sap at movies, anyhow, but it's no secret I have been an emotional disaster the last several months.  As I sat there feeling tearful until the last credits rolled, the Chinese in the theater had pretty much already exited- except for one middle aged man in the row in front of me.  

We both stood up to leave at the same time. We made eye contact with me and he could see that I had been crying.  He looked at me, saw that I was a laowai, and then he put his hands together to express gratitude as folks do in this part of the world. He bowed deeply, with his hands 'in prayerful thanksgiving' and said to me "Sank you, cheesus"  I smiled and bowed in return.  He bowed and said more forcefully, "Sank you, cheesus."  I was a bit taken aback.  I smiled awkwardly, then showed him the cross pendant on my necklace.  I wanted him to know I was an American, and a Christian.  His eyes widened, he became very animated, and as we exited the theater, he bowed and said repeatedly, "Sank you, cheesus" no less than six more times. It was sweet.  It was awkward.  It was overwhelming to think of all he wanted to say, but didn't have the English words to express it.  It was all I could do to hold it together.

By the time I got to the street, I bowed to him one last time, said "bie keqi" (you're welcome) and then became completely undone.  I don't know what exactly came over me....so many thoughts and emotions....I was totally overwhelmed.  It was a short walk back to my hotel, and by now I was sobbing.  I walked in to the lobby, and while I had been gone all day, the hotel had put up a Christmas tree and decorated the lobby.  I looked up at the tree, and noticed that "Silent Night" was playing overhead.  It was more than I could bear.

It was December 19th, and I have tried to all but ignore the impending holidays. I miss my momma. I miss my family.  I miss my children, my grandchildren, my friends, Len....all of them.  I miss the holiday traditions I had created all those years of raising my children.  It will be my third Christmas in Asia, and I continue to fight an overwhelming sadness and grief inside of me. There was no escaping it in that moment, not even in an unfamiliar city far, far away in China.

I bolted for the elevator, embarrassed by my raw emotions.  The bellman curiously looked at me, could see that I was upset, and he rushed ahead of me to the elevator.  He pressed the buttons, escorted me in, asked what floor, and quietly stood beside me as I sobbed all the way up.  He followed me to my room, gestured for my key, and opened my door.  His kindness and compassion toward me, in my brokenness, only moved me to tears even more.  I bowed repeatedly, said "xie xie" over and over, and he quietly closed the door.  It was all I could do to drag myself to a hot shower, peel off my clothes, and have yet another cleansing cry.

Tomorrow will be better.

It has to be.

Please, God, let me get through just one more day.

G'nite, y'all.